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xxii                                        Introduction

       the original Vedic culture has been modified, diluted, and
       contaminated in various ways, to become what is now
       known as Hinduism.


       Still, whatever real culture remains in India is valuable
       and worth learning from. For even today bits and pieces
       of traditional India still survive. Behold the Saurashtrian
       cowherd leaning on his elaborately carved stick, his feet
       adorned with curled-up, ornately designed shoes, his face
       with a similarly curling mustache, and his head covered
       with fifty meters of ribboned white cloth, intricately
       wrapped as a huge turban.  And see his son calling each
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       cow of his herd by name and playing a flute to gather them.
       Meet a small band of pilgrims on perhaps a thousand-
       kilometer journey to visit places of God, singing bhajanas
       as they walk, taking provisions from pious people along
       the way, and stopping at midday to cook chapatis on a
       fire made from twigs and leaves. Note groups of village
       women walking several kilometers to the nearest well or
       river — their brass water pots stacked one atop another
       on their heads, their colorful clothing reflecting the early
       morning sun, their thick silver anklets just visible under
       their sārīs and their bracelets jostling as they march along
       singing to Kṛṣṇa with childish simplicity.

       Yet the essence of Indian culture goes far deeper even
       than these charming external manifestations. It is based
       on a subtle spiritual philosophy impenetrable by those not


       3. Saurashtra — an area of Gujarat where many members of
       an ancient cowherd community still adhere to their traditions.
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